Just like its title – indicating “gift from God” in Bulgarian – womenswear brand name Bogdar’s models stand out: consider acid green ruffled attire, fuchsia organic silk shirts and tangerine cycling shorts.
Spouse-and-wife staff Pavel and Teodora Lozanov started the brand name alongside one another in 2016 in Bulgaria, on a direct-to-customer design. It is also available at Wolf & Badger in the Uk, presently its only Uk stockist. Before the Covid-19 pandemic, the Lozanovs had been in conversations with numerous other luxury shops in the Uk, like Selfridges, Matches and Web-a-Porter.
However, Pavel describes, talks had been slowed down by Covid: “Many are increasing their portfolio on sustainability, but they are not keen to get on new makes thanks to the recent situation. It is difficult – the opinions is constructive, but they just can’t guess on new designers. Most retailers’ budgets are heading to set up designers.”
Artistic director Pavel appears to be just after layout and Teodora is in demand of finances. Before Bogdar, Teodora labored in marketing for Estée Lauder Companies in Dubai, and was accountable for Mac Cosmetics’ marketing methods. Pavel has often labored for his family’s apparel manufacturing business, controlling production for makes this sort of as Versace, Armani and Burberry, and understood his upcoming would lie in vogue.
Merchandise are all developed by sixteen customers of team at founder Pavel’s loved ones-operate manufacturing facility in Vidin, Bulgaria, which opened in 2009. The cottons, silks and viscose employed by Bogdar are sourced from Italy, with the vast majority of jerseys developed in Portugal.
Individuals can see a headshot and bio of exactly who made their products on the website. These include sample-maker Snejana Tsanova, seventy two, who’s been with the firm for 13 many years, and the team’s sole male personnel, sample-maker Zdravko Peev Zahariev, forty four.
Teodora tells Drapers: “You just can’t forget about the people who make the clothes. A great deal of makes out there declare to be sustainable as they are making use of sustainable fabrics, but it’s about the people who work for the makes, way too. We have transparency in our production.”
For the SS21 collections, Bogdar employed a hundred% sustainable fabrics, like GOTS (World wide Natural and organic Textile Common) cotton. The brand name experienced previously employed pure products that had been not all licensed. It now only utilizes organic or biodegradable products and, for AW21, is launching a traceability programme, with which the Lozanovs goal to show that each and every phase from crop growth to last production has been licensed as sustainable.
Part of this initiative is the start of a compostable dress, which will take twelve weeks to decompose in a pure natural environment. The Mika, a lilac, variety-fitting midi design and style, is made with Lyocell licensed by Tencel from a compact, loved ones-operate supplier in Portugal, which is powered by renewable energy and utilizes only pure dyes.
Bogdar can presently trace the cotton it utilizes back to the farm it was developed, and suppliers are licensed by third parties that the crops are organic, and workers get reasonable spend.
Bogdar does not use fur or leather-based, and rather utilizes vegan leather-based choices this sort of as polyurethane, a polyester or cotton blend fabric that has been warmth laminated and does not launch CO2. Fabrics employed include tree-friendly viscose made making use of waste from cotton crops, organic GOTS licensed silk, BCI (Improved Cotton Initiative) licensed cotton and recycled polyester.
Each products arrives with a sustainability passport, which tells the customer its origins and what suppliers at each and every phase of its journey are executing to shield the natural environment. Bogdar’s commitment to sustainability extends to its packaging: apparel labels are printed on recycled FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) licensed paper, parts are wrapped in acid-totally free paper made with soy ink, and orders are shipped in biodegradable packaging.
Teodora describes: “We generate sustainable products, but we never declare that we are a hundred% sustainable – it’s impossible to do so. We’re just attempting to boost each and every season.”
To additional minimize its environmental affect, Bogdar chose to minimize its collections from four to two every calendar year at the starting of 2020.
Pavel says: “It’s vital that each and every brand name does what they can [to be sustainable]. For new makes, it’s the only way to go. But the upcoming of sustainable vogue is also in the frame of mind of the customer. We [as people] have to inquire ourselves, do we actually need to have that many matters, or must we own a lot less but cherish and appreciate it? It is excellent for the natural environment but excellent for us as effectively, as we will don the goods for longer.”
The point that Bogdar owns its own factories has been an benefit throughout the Covid-19 pandemic. The atelier in its Vidin manufacturing facility halting in its tracks to create facemasks when there was a lack in April 2020.
Brexit also rocked the brand name, proving “chaotic”, say the few. They experienced to prevent all products becoming shipped to the Uk throughout the first two weeks of January, but deliveries are now managing easily again.
Growing distribution is in Bogdar’s sights for the AW21 season, when the brand name hopes to tap into British consumers’ rising style for shopping for sustainably.
Wholesale selling prices variety from £75 for an organic cotton major to £170 for an organic silk dress.