Are you an experienced jeweller who is effective with gemstones and stone placing tactics each and every working day? Or are you just beginning out and having to know various varieties of environment? Anywhere you are in your jewellery-generating profession, this Preciosa stone location guidebook will assist you use new stone placing methods with self-assurance and develop on your know-how base of extra complicated gemstone options.

At Cooksongold, we’ve just lately partnered up with Preciosa and are now official stockists of Preciosa Great Jewelry Stones. This signifies we’re listed here to support, whether or not you need to inventory up on colourful gemstones in varying cuts or develop on your information of how to established stones working with new approaches. What greater prospect to understand how to deliver flawlessly crafted options with our new Preciosa gemstones variety?

Assisting you fantastic Preciosa stone location procedures

As a jeweller who is used to performing with important steel, you may possibly want to experiment with new cuts and unfamiliar stone configurations. Potentially you are at a point where you want to get the job done on bezel options in much more element, or you just want to understand much more about CNC location tactics? So let us get to function. Here’s how you can start doing work with Preciosa Wonderful Jewellery Stones, integrating them with your personal items and implementing your very own style to every single new gemstone you use.

Bezel environment

The bezel placing is perhaps one particular of the most normally made use of stone configurations in jewellery generating, as it supplies a secure way of environment numerous kinds of stone, and can quickly be conquered by novices working with pre-slash bezel for basic cabochon stones.

What is a bezel setting?

A bezel placing is designed working with a strip of steel that encloses the gemstone inside it, revealing the prime of the stone with a modest collar of metal holding it in location. Bezel is the metallic strip that encases the gemstone that you are doing work with and typically resembles a cup form, in which your stone will be set.

Different styles of bezel setting

  • Entire bezel setting – when the gemstone is thoroughly enclosed inside of the bezel strip and only the top of the stone is visible
  • Partial or half bezel placing – where the metal strip does not totally enclose the gemstone but leaves some of it more open and visible
  • Open up backed bezel – ideal for pendant perform where by each and every facet of the gemstone is visible but the metallic strip wraps around the edges of the stone
  • Hammer established bezel – when gemstones are an irregular shape hammering may possibly be an easier way of encasing it in the bezel strip

How to bezel set a gemstone from the Preciosa collection

If you’re environment Preciosa gemstones by hand, you are going to want to take a organization maintain on the bezel or collet (metal cup) working with tweezers or flat nose pliers. Don’t forget to use a unfastened but sturdy grip so that the steel is not misshapen as you work. Area the Preciosa gemstone inside of the steel cup employing your tweezers. As soon as you are happy with the position of the gemstone you can then close the cup shut making use of a bezel roller or your preferred hand environment device.

If you’re discovering several environment strategies and desire to actually get to know the ins and outs of making exact bezel set pieces, you may perhaps want to experiment with both equally pre-manufactured bezels and Do-it-yourself bezels. The principal factor to try to remember when producing bezel established patterns is that the stone you’re working with really should suit snugly in the bezel. The stone may have some space, but it really should be firmly in spot so that it has no opportunity of coming free and dropping out of the location.

Are you just setting up to experiment with stone placing procedures? Use our guide on how to bezel established a cabochon stone to get you begun – this will aid you to grasp fundamental soldering and location strategies that you can construct on as you keep on to enjoy about with new gemstone cuts and exceptional options.

Why pick out bezel set stones?

Several people today decide on to use bezel options for jewellery building, regardless of whether they’re doing work on rings, pendants or earrings, as this form of setting supplies the stone with much more protection than some others. A prong location, where by the stone is a lot more exposed, is additional likely to capture on apparel and develop into scratched or harmed. The trade off with a bezel environment is that fewer of the stone is noticeable the moment it’s been set in spot. This perhaps would make it a fewer attractive seem in specified designs. For illustration, a Preciosa cubic zirconia in a significant good quality, faceted marquise minimize could be better offered applying a prong placing strategy so that its condition and clarity can be admired from all angles.

Prong placing

Also known as a claw environment, the prong setting is a well known location method when it arrives to operating with gemstones of increased price (it’s scarce for engagement ring professionals to conceal an intricately lower diamond in a bezel placing!). As the gemstone can be noticed from all angles it will allow a lot more light to hit the stone, move by way of, and illuminate it in all its brilliance.

What is a prong setting?

A prong location is distinguished from the bezel environment by its claws or prongs that are applied to maintain the gemstone in position. There are many prong settings you could arrive throughout and each individual may possibly change in the quantity of prongs utilised, from two to a few, four, or six prongs. The prong environment usually means that a lot less metal is employed to take care of the gemstone in place, leaving the gemstone desk uncovered, generating it the focal level of the jewellery.

Distinctive types of prong setting

  • Four-prong/compass environment – when the four prongs hold the central gemstone in place at the north, east, south, and west factors of the stone.
  • Basket placing – where the wire prongs (usually 6 to twelve) sort an open framework building a basket-like shape in which the gemstones will sit.
  • V-shaped/peg head prong setting – when a gemstone’s condition requires a tiny further place, the v-shaped environment presents the best situation and look for additional pointed styles this kind of as marquise, pear and oval cuts.

How to make a prong location for use with Preciosa Fine Jewelry Stones

Start off by placing a minimal pressure on the prongs so that you can tease them out. This will assist you position the gemstone into the prongs at the proper depth. If the gemstone is not fitting into position accurately you might have to have to use a burr to eliminate some of the valuable metallic so that the stone sits at the suitable level.

Now the stone sits at a acceptable depth you will have to create if the prongs are extensive sufficient to firmly keep the stone in location but not so long that they hit the desk of the gemstone. Some trimming may be demanded. At this stage it is quite significantly demo and mistake, so make absolutely sure you function in little increments so that you don’t in excess of-trim the prongs and have to start the total system once again. Don’t forget to take out the gemstone every single time you trim or file the prongs so that you are not probably to injury the gemstone in the approach.

Now you have trimmed the prongs down, you can minimize a groove in the prongs with a needle file, encouraging the girdle of the gemstone sit firm and stage in the environment. Up coming stage is to file the prongs down – this will make it less difficult to manipulate the steel. Now press the prongs into spot so that the gemstone is firmly secured and the prongs are flush with the gemstone.

Why pick out prong configurations?

Prong configurations are, in point, a price tag-successful approach of setting a variety of gemstones in place. If you’re at the position in which you’re creating your personal prong options you may possibly be capable to use leftover precious metal sheet or wire to develop your prong setting. With time and practice the amount of money you use will grow to be smaller, preserving you funds on obtaining pre-produced prong options. It will also assistance you to put your individual stamp on the pieces that you’re operating on, assisting you to make improvements to your craft and stone environment procedure in the process.

Channel environment

A well known feature on engagement ring layouts, channel established diamonds are an additional flourish to rings that include added sparkle. Mastering channel established gemstones will imply operating with smaller stones in element and perfecting the generation of the channel whilst receiving the top of every single stone exactly the exact same for the very best achievable finish.

What is channel placing?

A channel location is when modest gemstones are suspended in a row using a channel made from two steel strips. Each and every stone need to have an individual seat so that they are at a constant height across the channel. A channel location can feature as small or as a lot of gemstones as wished-for, and can be an extra function to an engagement ring or eternity ring.

How to channel established gemstones

When embarking on generating a ring with channel established gemstones the most critical issue to bear in mind is to precisely get the job done on the creation of the seat where each stone will sit. Utilizing a rotary slicing resource, the seats will will need to be correctly fashioned so that every just one fits the dimensions of the stone. Each individual stone must also sit side by side, girdle to girdle, so that they surface to sit seamlessly as soon as the piece is concluded. As the gemstones are put into area the sidewalls of the channel can then be manipulated to firmly keep it in put. In buy to accurately manipulate the location wall, a handheld effect hammer really should be utilized – this will simply glide around the steel, pushing it into spot without having detrimental the stone.

Finding to know how to established gemstones is a time-consuming system that will get time to great, particularly as you commence making use of diverse Preciosa Good Jewelry Stones with distinctive cuts. But it is time well put in. Devote in some superior high quality stone setting applications and start out experimenting with the higher than approaches – you will soon be completely ready to delight your clients with new models.

Completely ready to attempt these strategies? Search the most recent collection of Preciosa Great Jewellery Stones from Cooksongold.

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Author: Cooksongold